
Making wine for the first time is one of those deeply satisfying experiences — you start with fruit, sugar, and yeast, and weeks later pour something genuinely drinkable into a glass. The process is forgiving if you follow a few key principles.
Fermentation is straightforward: yeast consumes sugar and produces alcohol and CO₂. Your job is to create the right conditions for yeast to work and then protect the resulting wine from oxygen and spoilage bacteria. Everything else — fruit selection, temperature, timing — is just optimising those two goals.
A simple country wine or kit wine is the easiest starting point. For a 5-litre elderflower or grape juice wine:
If you're using elderflowers: ferment only the florets. Strip them off all green stalks, stems, and leaves first — the green parts of the elder plant are bitter and contain cyanogenic glycosides, so they don't belong in the must. The blossoms themselves are fine. (Raw elderberries are a different case: they contain more of these compounds and should be cooked before use.)
Nothing ruins a batch faster than contamination. Before you touch any equipment, clean and sanitise. Dissolve 12g of potassium metabisulphite plus 3g of citric acid in 1 litre of water. Rinse all equipment: demijohn, airlock, bung, spoon, hydrometer, trial jar. Let drain, don't rinse off.
Warning: Never skip sanitisation. One acetobacter contamination — the vinegar bacteria, which ride in on fruit flies and dirty kit — will turn your wine to vinegar.
Pour a sample of your must (unsugared juice) into a hydrometer trial jar. Float the hydrometer and read the scale. Pure juice typically reads 1.040–1.060. Top up with dissolved sugar syrup to reach your target:
Record this number — you'll need it to calculate final ABV.
Rehydrate your yeast in 50mL of warm water (35–40°C) for 10–15 minutes. Once the yeast is active and bubbling slightly, pour the must into your sanitised demijohn and add the yeast. Fit the airlock (filled halfway with water or a 1% KMS solution) and set in a warm spot.
At 18–22°C, you should see bubbling in the airlock within 12–24 hours. Active fermentation lasts 5–14 days. The gravity drops steadily as sugar converts to alcohol. Swirl gently if you see yeast starting to settle early.
Check gravity every few days. When it stabilises at or below 1.000 for two consecutive readings, primary fermentation is complete.
Using a siphon (auto-siphon is worth the investment), transfer the wine from the primary vessel into a clean, sanitised demijohn, leaving the sediment (lees) behind. Try to minimise splashing to avoid oxygen pickup.
Add a crushed Campden tablet (≈45 mg/L SO₂ in a 5L batch) or 0.4g of KMS to protect the wine.
Leave the wine undisturbed for 4–8 weeks. Rack once more if significant sediment forms. The wine will clarify on its own — you can add a fining agent (e.g. Superkleer) if you want to accelerate this.
When the wine is clear and stable (gravity unchanged for 2 weeks), it's ready to bottle. Check free SO₂ and top up if needed. Siphon into clean, sanitised wine bottles. Cork with a hand corker or use screw caps. Label with the date and lot number.
Your first wine will rarely be exceptional — and that's completely normal. The goal is to learn the process, notice what worked and what didn't, and iterate. Keep notes on everything: gravity readings, temperatures, timings, tasting observations. That log becomes invaluable as you make more batches.
Tip: MakeWine lets you log gravity readings, track phases, and record additions on every batch. Start logging from day one.